Elevation: - 14,034'
Location - Southwest of Lake City in
Colorado in the San Juan mountains.
This is the first of three segments to a trip Mike and I made in the third week of September, 2004. We had timed the trip for then to catch the aspen at their peak, and we were not disappointed. The trip concentrated on the area west of Lake City, CO, specifically the Lake Fork of the Gunnison and Henson Creek drainages.
I have been to this area multiple times in the last five years, and it is my favorite place in all of Colorado. The San Juans are a great mixture of big, remote mountains, beautiful scenery, and the historical traces of mining in the area.
The following is extracted from my trip journal. Photos follow.
Sunday, Sep. 19, 2004
"Welcome to the round part of the world."
- Mike, typically to himself after doing something non-optimalBackpacked up through light intermittent rain. Decided to set up camp at "Y" junction heading up to Redcloud. We camped on a flat spot out of the wind by the creek. It had really started to rain and blow a little which hastened our decision! We set up the Hurricane Hole from the inside to stay out of the rain. This is the 2nd to 3rd time I've done this - a bit of a struggle but you stay dry(er) :-).
Then we have sat in the tent all afternoon because it has rained all afternoon. Sigh. Relaxed and played a lot of cribbage and ate a lot of food.It is now after 5:00PM and we may end up cooking in the vestibule.
New snow line on all the peaks down to about 12,500' to 13,000'. Temperature is about 40°. I won first set of cribbage 2-1, Mike won second 2-0.
Monday, Sep. 20, 2004
Blew and rained on and off all night. Is now. Sigh. Thermometer sez it's 35° in tent. Not bad.
"It looks like it's going to stop/clear up (ha ha)."
- Mike and me both yesterday quite a lot, tongue in cheekMade it solo up Redcloud! Yay! At about 7:30AM it was still overcast and had only quit raining within the half hour. I said we should make up our minds - go for Redcloud if the weather (unexpectedly) turned for the better, or bail if it looked like it was going to be another tent-bound day like yesterday. Then the blue sky patches showed up and started battling against the clouds. For a long time we both thought the clouds would win, and then suddenly it was 50/50 and we decided to go for Redcloud. We packed day packs and were on trail at 9:20AM with broken sky. As we hiked up the valley toward the saddle it became mostly blue sky with some big ugly chunks of storm clouds that would periodically obscure the sun and cause everything to go gray and shadows.
The walk from camp at 12,000' to the saddle was straightforward, even if the final ascent to the saddle was up a steep grade, there were good switchbacks on the trail and it wasn't onerous. The snowline started just above the saddle, which is at about 13,100'. It was just enough snow to help stick to the talus and gravel without it being so much as to be slick or a hazard on its own. Shortly after starting the switchbacks up through the snow toward the false summit, Mike got an attack of dizziness and had to descend. He said later it has been happening to him above timberline for some time now.
I continued on up the slope toward the false summit, then slogged up the snow the last 200'-300' to the actual summit. This actually took less time than I thought it would, especially since becoming subjected to gale force winds once past the false summit. It was windy enough to make you think of blowing off (feet moving, getting "pushed" off balance, etc.) without there being much actual danger of that I was warm enough, just in intense wind!
I summited at 11:06AM, approximately one to one and a half miles by trail, approximately 2,000' elevation gain. Took pictures of myself :-), Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn (and Matterhorn), Sneffels, Handies and Sunshine, which was just a mile away and an easy ridge walk to get it, but I didn't trust the weather, and at the time didn't know how Mike was doing back at camp, and I really didn't want to spend another one-plus hours in that wind, so I turned and came down. Back at camp at 12:06PM. Weather turned bad at 1:45PM.
"I think some people are right."
- Mike, first dayJim wins two sets of cribbage at 2-1 each!!!
Tuesday, Sep. 21, 2004
30° at 6:26AM.
Going to be "interesting" today. It snowed all night and is still snowing now at 6:30AM. Accumulations of about 1.5" of dry "pellet" snow (editor's note: John sez it's called "graupel"). I don't think getting down will be a problem, but driving out on the shelf road may be!!
5:32PM, in Wagon Wheel Cabins #4. Got out to car by 9:20AM. Shelf road wasn't too bad, snow hadn't stuck to it yet so it was just wet and muddy and rough. We ate breakfast at the Tic Toc Cafe, then drove up to Capitol City on the Engineer Pass road. We stopped at the trail heads for both Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn. Since it was snowing at both places we decided to go back to Lake City, rent a cabin, dry out the gear, and head out tomorrow morning. We may try Uncompahgre as a day trip tomorrow. Might still be snowing at that elevation, so could be an adventure!
It sure was nice in Lake City this afternoon (50°-60°) as it was snowing up above. I bought shell pants and shell gloves ($20 and $12) to replace the ones I thought about bringing and then decided against them. Grrr...Mike and I both agree these cabins are nicer than the Town Square cabins.
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It is starting to be a tradition
for there to be various
"tent" pictures of Mike
flipping the finger. I know I have at
least two, and Ginger probably has a
couple, etc.
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This was during our first day,
which after backpacking to our
camping site was completely rained
out, starting with setting up the
tent. Luckily my Hurricane Hole can
be set up from the inside in
inclement weather, and this was the
third time we made use of that.
Anyway, Mike is cooking our evening
repast in the vestibule while it
rains right outside the door.
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This is our campsite in the low
12,000' range, looking south down
the valley we came up and then across
the Lake Fork of the Gunnison valley
and up at Handies Peak (14,048'),
which is obscured by cloud, but the
aspen on its lower slopes are visible
here. Scale to Handies is about five
miles. Note cooking in vestibule
again, this time mostly as a wind
break.
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The summit of Redcloud Peak
(14,034') is the smooth white
area just visible in the upper right
center.
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Looking north from our camp toward
the "gendarmes" on the left
and the "shark's tooth"
on the right. Nice camp site!
Sheltered from the wind, with the
last little bit of the valley creek
still running (it peters out about
another 100' upstream of this
shot). It is helpful when looking at
the geology here to remember that all
of this is volcanic, and that in fact
Redcloud and its neighbors are part
of the "Lake City Caldera",
representing the remnants of a
huge volcano.
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Same as the last shot towards
Handies, except that I'm in it!
:-)
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A better look at the gendarmes,
but still not as impressive as they
were in person.
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From the summit of Redcloud.
Uncompahgre Peak (14,309'), sixth
highest peak in CO) is the big peak
in the center of the horizon, about
eight miles away past the Henson
Creek drainage. Wetterhorn Peak
(14,015') is the point on the
horizon in left center. Matterhorn
Peak (13,590') is the point to
its right. Coxcomb Peak (13,656')
is the flat-topped peak to
Wetterhorn's left.
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From the summit of Redcloud.
Handies Peak is the large snow peak
on the left at the head of the
hanging glacial valley. The lower
valley wrapping to the right is the
Lake Fork of the Gunnison river, and
it and the shelf road wrap around up
into American Basin behind Handies,
and also over passes to head to Ouray
or Silverton. 4WD driving only!
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From the summit of Redcloud.
Sunshine Peak (14,001') is the
snow peak just left of center. For
scale, it is about a mile away, and
an easy ridge walk the whole way.
However, it was also blowing gale
force winds that day, and after
battling them to the top of Redcloud,
I didn't feel like dealing with
them for another hour. Second time
I've been close to the summit of
Sunshine and then turned back (the
first was for avalanche conditions).
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From the summit of Redcloud. From
the saddle which is used to start up
toward the summit of Redcloud there
is a path heading ENE that clearly
follows the ridge over to this peak,
which is simply point
"13,832'" on the topos.
I would like to go back and do this
peak as part of a traverse all around
Silver Creek drainage.
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From the summit of Redcloud.
Speaking of photographic traditions,
my summit self-portraits seem to be
becoming one. Handies is behind me.
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From the summit of Redcloud. The
saddle at the head of the Silver
Creek drainage is below in right
center. The path was then up the snow
covered ridge to the false summit
just at the left of the photo, and
then up the snow slope to the actual
summit. About 200' from the false
summit to the summit (really
foreshortened here) and about
1,000' from the saddle to the
false summit.
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The reverse of the last shot, here
standing on one of the lower points
of the snow ridge just above the
saddle, looking at the summit of
Redcloud (left center). Route was up
the ridge to the false summit on the
right, then up the slope to the
actual summit.
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Copyright © 2004 - James Lehmer - All Rights Reserved.